Two Balds and a Firetower in the Smokies

Great Smoky Mountain National Park

11/5 - 11/9/21 (4 nights)

2021 Bag Nights: 37

Clingmans Dome to Fontana Dam via the AT with a side trip to Gregory Bald

Night 1: Double Spring Gap

Night 2: Derrick Knob

Night 3: Russell Field

Night 4: Site 13

Caltopo says about 41 miles (range: 1677' to 6573' gross: +9630' -14246')

Weather looks perfect

The AT goes through the middle of the Park. We started at Clingmans Dome on the Right and ended at Fontana Dam on the bottom Left.

We left our packs in the car for the hike to Andrews Bald. It is just long enough that the hoards of people at Clingmans Dome don't make it. There were about 10 other people enjoying the day and the views.

Fontana Lake a couple miles and 4000' down

Then back to the car and our packs and down the trail. A lot of the AT is in the trees, but there are some nice views along the way.

We got to Double Spring Gap and were able to find a place to setup away from the shelter a little bit. There were more people than I expected, we were hitting the last of the southbound thru-hikers. Most of them were planning on being done by Thanksgiving. Everyone was nice, we had a small fire and chatted a bit and then bed.

Day 2 

A little cold in the morning, but not bad once the sun was higher, great day for hiking.

My friend's son

Last bits of fall still hanging on.

We got to Derrick Knob early after a short day of hiking, enough time for a nap in the hammock. Talked to thru-hikers, bourbon and a fire again. Great day.

Day 3

Weather forecast still accurate, beautiful day. Up and over Rocky Top

Fontana Lake down below

Russell Field Shelter

More thru-hikers, more bourbon and conversation

Day 4

Off the AT for the night to Gregory Bald and Site 13, that's Cades Cove down below

We setup camp and then hiked the 1/2 mile back to the bald for sunset. 

Cade Cove again

Day 5

Woke up early to catch the sunrise from the bald

My friend and his son headed down the trail to get water. I told them I would catch up in a bit. I started to head into the trees to take care of some business and saw a bear watching me. This is the first bear I've seen in the Smokies that did not immediately run. I took a couple photos (heavily cropped) as he went back to foraging and then headed down the trail. 

Back on the AT heading towards Fontana Dam, the trees were glowing in the sunlight.

Side trip for lunch and a view at the Shuckstack Firetower

Chimney from the old cabin

Then back to the AT, I'm ready for a burger and a beer

Last bit is the road across the dam to the trailhead/parking lot.

Fontana Lake has been lowered for winter

Shuckstack Firetower in the middle of the ridge. 

This was a great trip, very fun to hike with my friend's son. I could have done with fewer thru-hikers, but still never felt crowded.

Standing Indian Loop

11/16 - 11/18 (2 nights)
2018 bag nights: 35

I met JC and his wife and friend for a weekend of backpacking. JC and I generally try to get at least one trip together each year, but his wife had never joined us before and this was the Julia's first time backpacking. The weather forecast was close to perfect, highs around 50 and lows around freezing with basically zero chance of rain. The weather forecast was the only reason I ended up doing this since I had been fighting a chest cold/bronchitis for the last couple days.

We decided to do the Standing Indian Loop, a place where the Appalachian Trail does a kind of loop as it follows the ridge. One concern was the loop is about 25 miles, most people do it over 3 days/2 nights. We had three nights planned, but since we were driving about 5 hours we thought it would work ok.

We met about 1:00 and started hiking up the Kinsley Creek Trail towards Standing Indian Mountain. The trail parallels the creek for a bit and then starts climbing up to the Appalachian Trail and then the summit, a total climb of about 2300 feet over 5.5 miles.

We got to the summit just in time for sunset, but it was really windy and about 35 degrees, so it was hard to linger and enjoy. The combination of hiking and being sick hit me pretty hard, I cooked dinner and then was unable to eat anything. I ended up laying in my hammock for about 2 hours, then got up and drank more water and ate some gorp and talked for a bit before heading for bed and hoping to feel better in the morning.

I woke up just in time to see the sun peak over the ridge. The wind had died down and it was a beautiful morning.

I went back to the top to check out the view with my coffee. I felt a lot better and decided that I could keep hiking.

Weird piece of junk just off the trail

Today was just hiking the AT, very easy hiking without a lot of the ups and downs the AT usually has in the southeast.

We passed a couple boy scout groups and a bunch of other people which made us want to avoid camping near the shelters. We ended up hiking about 10.5 miles to Mooney Gap which set us up for an easy day hike to Pickens Nose in the morning. The views were great, I'd like to see it in the fall with the leaves changing.

Woke up the next day after coughing all night, still sick, but mostly feel fine. Today was the climb to the Albert Mountain Firetower a climb of about 1000 feet over 1.5 miles.

The last couple days, the galax leaves had been catching my eye, so I decided that I should finally take a photo.

Looking up at the firetower

View from the top of Albert Mountain

The firetower itself is in great shape, much better than some I have seen.

We had thought about camping here or nearby and catching the sunset, but it was only 1:00. After a little bit of discussion, we decided that we could be at the cars in about 2 hours and a cheeseburger and beer sounded really good. So, down the trail we went.

In retrospect there were a couple nice spots about a mile or two from the road, we should have camped there and made a beer run to the trailhead and then had an easy hike out in the morning. As it was, I had an easy drive and got home about 10:30 pm. It was nice to sleep in my own bed and see my kids in the morning.

The whole area is really pretty with a couple of nice view points, but it was way to crowded and not long enough given the drive time. I'm not sure I'll be back, but if I do return, it would be in the middle of the week to try to avoid the crowds.